Jim Whittaker, the legendary climber who became the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, has died at the age of 97. He passed away on Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington.
His family remembered him as a man of warmth and optimism who devoted his life to sharing a love for adventure and the natural world.
Whittaker made history in 1963 when he successfully summited Everest alongside Nawang Gombu, a decade after the mountain was first conquered. The achievement propelled him into national prominence and helped spark widespread interest in mountaineering across the United States.
Beyond his climbing feats, Whittaker played a key role in the growth of REI, serving as its first full-time employee and later as president and CEO. Under his leadership in the 1970s, the co-op’s membership nearly quadrupled.
A passionate conservationist, Whittaker used his influence to advocate for the protection of natural landscapes. His efforts contributed to the establishment of major protected areas, including North Cascades National Park, the Pasayten Wilderness, and Redwood National Park.
He also championed unity through adventure, exemplified by the 1990 Mount Everest International Peace Climb, which brought together climbers from the United States, the Soviet Union, and China during a period of global tension.
Whittaker shared a close friendship with Robert F. Kennedy, with whom he climbed a Canadian peak later named Mount Kennedy. His early climbing journey began in the 1940s alongside his twin brother, Lou Whittaker, who also became a respected figure in the climbing community.
He is survived by his wife of 52 years, Dianne Roberts, and their three sons. Former Washington Governor Jay Inslee said Whittaker’s legacy remains as enduring as the mountains he spent his life climbing.